In the village of Liatung I take my seat on a viewing platform to witness the funeral I have come so far to see. This is the ultimate event in the religious and social life of Tana Toraja. The pageantry and solemnity of the feast of the setting sun will commemorate the life of Du'nang, a nobleman who died 6 months ago. Swaddled in homespun quilts, he waits patiently in his tongkonan, or traditional Toraja home, for burial at the most auspicious time. During this interlude, which can last for years, his two favorite wives have been in constant attendance.

The supreme symbol of status and wealth in Tana Toraja is the buffalo, which trumps the ubiquitous scooter, the occasional car, and even a man's home. Because Du'nang was a nobleman at least 12, and as many as 75, buffalo must be sacrificed at his funeral, which can last for weeks and will be attended by all the surrounding villages. Buffalo will be provided by the vIllagers who are indebted to Du'nang in one way or another.

From my vantage point I see guests streaming to the funeral. The footpaths and dirt roads are clogged with whole villages arriving in unison, walking or riding scooters, solemnly bearing their gifts. They are colorfully attired according to their role at the feast, dancer, singer, server, butcher etc. Buffalo lead the processions, some for sacrifice, some for fighting, and some just for show. Hundreds of squealing pigs are suspended from bamboo poles, protesting the indignity, and perhaps their fate. Chickens cluck in wicker baskets. Many villagers carry tote sacks of rice or bamboo tubes of tuak, the fermented juice of the sugar palm. Finally, a runner makes his rounds through the village to announce "It begins."(next photo)