I was raised up the road from the Gulf of Mexico and spent a lot of time there, fishing with my dad and exploring miles of white sandy beaches. The Gulf seemed infinite back then, bountiful with speckled trout, red snapper, blue crab, and numerous odd creatures that surprised and delighted, and taught me about the world. In those days the beaches were rolling dunes anchored by sea oats, "patrolled" only by gulls and pelicans. Surf and sand teemed with a cornucopia of shells, of every size, shape, and color.

Then, in decades, not eons, it all changed. The bounty began to disappear before our very eyes. Before we knew it the monk seal was gone, the manatee endangered. By the end of the 20th century the Gulf had been nearly depleted of apex species, a result of overfishing. Populations of shark, swordfish, marlin, tuna, turtle, and whale were down 50 to 90 percent! Half of all coral reefs were seriously damaged or dead! Miles and miles of marsh and sea grass meadow were transformed into malls, marinas, and motels. Oil rigs (tens of thousands) and pipelines littered the coast and continental shelf. And instead of nurturing the Gulf of Mexico with nutrients the Mississippi River poisoned it with toxic chemicals. Poets penned odes to the "Sea of Sacrifice," lamenting the price paid for the modern world.

The Gulf is in deep trouble. But alas, a few bright spots still flicker out there. Some areas have managed to escape the trawler. In spite of the massive environmental degradation, there is still an astonishing diversity of life waiting on tighter fishing controls to repopulate itself. And there are even a few much needed sanctuaries, around Florida, Mexico, and Cuba, and more being discussed. These provide hope for the Gulf, and for us all. (next photo)