And this is my quest, a fluffy white ball with two black eyes. Each year 250,000 harp seals migrate from Greenland to bear their young on the ice floes that surround the Magdalen Islands. For decades the pups were hunted, clubbed in the head for their immaculate white fur to make coats for the European well-to-do. Blood and brains were spilled in full view of terrified mother seals. Often the pups were only stunned, and cried out as they were skinned alive, their cries ignored by the pitiless sealers.

In the 1980's a long sought miracle happened. Groups of protesters gathered on the ice during the March hunt. They brought with them cameras and cans of green spray paint. At great risk of harm (some were), they filmed the horrific slaughter and sprayed as many pups as they could with the paint, rendering their fur worthless. Many pups were killed anyway. Photos and videos of the hunt were circulated worldwide. An angry public raised an outcry and Europe, the principle market, issued a ban on the import of harp seal fur. After a long and bitter struggle a cruel industry was dead.

A decade later ecotourism groups began visiting the Maggies, toting only cameras. I am now one of them. Our guides are the former seal hunters, employed again by taking us out on the ice they know so well. Win-Win!