The jungles of Borneo are not teeming with massive trees and charismatic megafauna, much to the chagrin of many first time visitors. Present but seldom seen are the world's largest flower, orchid, and moth. Sun bears, clouded leopards, elephants, and rhinoceroses are super secretive, and thus a few still hang on in scattered pockets of precious forests. They too are almost never seen by the casual visitor. A research scientist recently reported living with and studying orangutans for two years and never laying eyes on one. Hard to believe 300 pounds of anything can escape being seen. Fortunately the researcher was studying the nests they make each night which can be seen the following morning, minus the occupants.

The jungle is a small world on a big scale. There are millions of known insects to go with the bazillions we don't know. Included are ants, beetles, and termites, to name a few. And then there are the spiders. And flying squirrels, lizards, frogs, and snakes. And what is true for the big guys is also true for the little guys. They tend to be nocturnal, camouflaged, and mostly in the tree tops. Thus they are rarely seen, much to the relief of most first time visitors.

Yet despite the ghostly presence of so many species, the rain forest of Borneo is a magical place, a fairy-tale that is real. To walk into its palpable presence is to come alive with all the senses. This is the Garden of Eden, the world as it was bequeathed, the most complex and beautiful corner of the universe. Whether it's a spider's web bejeweled with morning dew, the flick of a lizard's tongue, a snake swallowing a snake, or an orangutan crashing through the trees, there is always something to enchant. If you take the time to notice. (next photo)