Our final and most welcome of destinations is Kathmandu, bless its polluted lilttle heart. Gateway to the mighty Himalayas, the capital of Nepal is a mecca for climbers and trekkers who want to introduce themselves to the goddess mother of the universe, Mt. Everest.

The city is an Asian polyglot, a boisterous swirl of races and cultures: Indian, Chinese, Tibetan, and Malay residents mix with assorted Yank and Euro adventurers and hippies, as well as scalawags from most anywhere else. The human chaos on the streets sweeps one past a bewildering array of shops and shrines in the company of sacred cows, mangy dogs, and a sampling of many of God's other creatures.

Gurus, spiritual guides "heavy with wisdom," roam the streets ready to lend a hand, always palm up. Some are genuine, most are not, so it's always best to be cautious before you eat, pray, love, or leave a tithe at the local ashram.

Despite the congestion, pollution, and trendy commercialism, Kathmandu is still a beguiling place to soothe one's nerves after a walk in the park or a leisurely bike ride.